So, I really don't know much about wine. I can decide if I like a wine or not, but I can't really tell you why. (Note to self : need to take a wine course) So it was with a little bit of trepidation that I decided it was time to attend one of the Wine Dinners featured at New World Home Cooking.
This was a Portuguese Wine Dinner, featuring the wines of the JM Fonseca family, five wines coupled with the savvy creations of Chef Ric Orlando. Oh yeah, and there would also be a Professor of Wines, Michael Weiss, from the Culinary Institute of America and the brand ambassador of JM Fonseca, Maria D. Stevens. No worries, right ?
My brother Tim and arrived at the restaurant and were directed to the back Garden Room. I took a deep breath, and walked in. I was expecting one big table set up, but the room was set up with 5 or so smaller tables. We were directed to one of the smaller 4 seater tables. So far, so good. Looking around the room, I recognized one other face, a woman that I have seen at my gym. I guess now I know part of the reason why we work out...
There was a table set up at the front of the room with the appetizers and the first wine of the night, a crisp and low alcohol white wine called Twin Vines Vinho Verde 2009. This was a lovely light and citrusy wine, easy to drink and with a touch of fizz to it. The appetizers included grilled bread, hummus, radishes and carrots, marinated ramps and pickled mussels. The pickled mussels were outstanding, tender and well seasoned with a touch of heat. One of the servers warned us that the ramps were strong flavored and that a little went a long way, not really sure what he meant by that as I did not find them overbearing in any way at all... We later learned from Ric that each of the appetizers featured some kind of vinegar as he felt that the wine would be the perfect foil for that flavor.
I was expecting to get a small taste of this wine but the servers were eagerly filling our glasses as soon as they got low. Hmm, I guess I had better pace myself, this was only the first wine !
Cocktail time was now coming to an end and we got short speeches from Ric the chef, Maria the ambassador and Michael the professor. Maria was charming and lovely in a sequined suit and spoke about the family owned wine company. We learned that the Twin Vines wine was named in honor of the family's twin daughters, Matilda and Francesca. Apparently Matilda is the strong willed one and Francesca is the more laid back one. Michael spoke briefly about the history of Portuguese wine making and Chef Ric gave us some insight as to how he came up with the menu. The Portuguese were quite the explorers, which explained the variety of tastes that we were about to enjoy.
As a side note, our table companions ended up being no-shows. We were given the option of moving to a different table, but the only open spots were at a table of earnest looking young culinary students and we were not sure that they would be happy with an invasion of "ancient ones", so we decided to stay put.
Course one was Curry Dusted Lobster and Sweet Bread Nuggets with a mango yogurt chutney butter and accompanied by another white wine, this time Periquita Moscato 2009. This wine was a bit heavier than the previous one, fruity but to my taste not as distinctive as the first. Our glasses were once again topped off before they got too low. The lobster was sweet and free of shell, with a lovely curry sauce. I decided not to dwell on what a sweet bread really is and just to embrace the nuggets, which were savory and tender and kept their secret very well. The wine was complimentary to the course, but was probably our least favorite wine of the night.
Feeling pretty good after nearly 4 glasses of wine, we were ready for course two, Duck Prosciutto Ramen accompanied by our first red wine of the night, Periquita Reserva, Peninsul de Setubal 2007. Yes, I said duck prosciutto ramen. You have to give it up for Chef Ric, he can come up with food combinations that surprise and even amuse, but win you over with their masterful blending of flavors. Our server first brought the bowls of ramen and warned us not to start until the duck prosciutto arrived. I didn't want to get thrown into food jail for violating this dish, so we meekly waited for the duck to arrive.
Once we received the small plates of thin layers of proscuitto, the chopsticks came out and our heads were in the noodle bowls. The ramen was accompanied with tiny brown beech mushrooms, baby leeks and Szechwan pepper. We dipped the salty sheets of duck prosciutto into the dark brown ramen broth and there was no going back from there. Our server confided to us that one of the perks of their job was to be able to down a bowl of the broth back in the kitchen. This rich brown broth was definitely spoon worthy and the savory paper thin proscuitto just added to the salty pleasure. The Periquita Reserva was a nice deep red color with a definite berry aroma. My brother and I tried to determine which berry flavor was coming through, I thought maybe raspberry and he thought maybe blackberry. Cheating and looking at the brochure let us know that our palates were sadly way off. The mystery berry was blueberry, with cassis and violet. Apparently, I have the palate of a Philistine...
Humbled by this, we awaited the third course. We did note that we were not offered any refill here, we must be entering serious wine country at this time. We were forewarned that the red wine coming with this course was a big old red monster, "living under the floor" as Ric colorfully put it. It was named Domini Plus 2007, made from grapes from the Douro Valley. This was served with Braised Northwind Farm Beef Brisket and Morcilla (blood sausage), galega olive pesto and something called teff gnocchi. Ric left us know that the teff gnocchi were gluten free as a courtesy for one of the guests. This was not a course for the weak of heart, this was serious meat eating. The slices of brisket were tender and meaty, with some crisped chunks of morcilla and were complimented nicely with the tangy olive pesto. This was wanton meat eating at its best, I could feel a surge of testosterone with the first bite ! The wine was hands down my favorite of the night. It was much more complex, with an earthier flavor. It did not have as strong a berry smell or flavor as the previous one. It reminded me of the scent of an Ex Libris wine that I liked, but for the life of me I can't identify what the mystery aroma is. Is it anise or is it spice, I don't know. I really do need a wine class. I would have loved a second glass of this one, though.
Just when you think you can't eat or drink anymore, you are tempted with the final dessert course. How can you say "no" to a Fried Fig/Ricotta dumpling with Chevre ice cream along with a small glass of Moscatel de Setubal ? I am an unabashed fig lover, so this was perfect for me. The tender dumpling was warm with chunks of fig inside and the creamy taste of ricotta running through it. The ice cream had the distinctive flavor of goats milk, lovely for a goat cheese lover like me. It reminded me of the goat's milk that we were served with coffee in Germany, bringing back a rush of good memories. The wine here was sweet and caramel like, almost syrupy in viscosity. A little goes a long way here, as is with most dessert wines.
At this point, there was nothing left to do but enjoy a good cup of coffee and wonder why in the world it took me this long discover the joys of a fine wine dinner...
Just a final note here - this dinner may have been very relaxed and casual, but the care and level of cuisine was of the highest quality. We were asked about any dietary concerns by our servers, a relief to a food allergy person as myself. Ric came around and stopped by every table and chatted with us all, same for Michael and Maria. Run, don't walk, to the next wine dinner.